Monday, March 23, 2015

Narcissism could make even salt less tangy!

In the normal course, The Great Hedge of India should have been a blockbuster. After all it breaks the story of a horror of colossal proportions: To levy a duty on salt, the British established a Customs line across the whole of India which in 1869 extended from the Indus to the Mahanadi in Madras - a distance of 2,300 miles. Guarded by 12,000 men, it would have stretched from London to Constantinople: an immense, impenetrable... hedge.,a monstrous system, to which it would be almost impossible to find a parallel in any tolerably civilised country'...perhaps something that caused unspeakable misery to millions then.

But no, Roy Moxham, could not become another William Dalrymple, an absolutely fascinating
William Dalrymple
interpreter of the sub-continentś recent pasṭ. Moxham is too lost in himself, in his own adventures, than in telling us a long-forgotten gruesome story.

I used to count my tribe as being among the most narcissistic, perhaps next only to film personalities. They will go on and on about how they cultivate their sources, hazards they face, remaining unfazed by the powerful and so on, convinced perhaps their own selves should be equally interesting to the reader too!

There was this colleague of mine deputed to cover the first Iraq war and whose first despatch went at great length into the problems he faced in getting a visa, arranging flight tickets, going without food somewhere, everything except the war itself. He didnt' cover himself with glory with his further despatches either.

And then this young man who was so entranced by his attempts to  establish contacts, trekking through forests, sharing very simple food, living it rough and so on that the story would end with his finally meeting the Naxal group. Of course very little of what they said or what they stood foṛ. May be the journo overshot his space and he had a tough choice - either more of the subject of the story or himself - and he had made his !

I remember once Suresh Menon dismissing Karnataka player Brijesh Patelś autobiography as an exercise in onanism!!

Roy Moxham seems to be in that league, reverting back to himself all the time. The hedge, the salt and the horrid conditions of the time occupy a very small portion, the rest is all devoted to the authorś own quest and experiences.

Well nothing of the hedge remains, yes, it having been demolished back in 1879 itself. And very few who can remember what happened theṇ. Not much of an archival material either on what the hedge did to peopleś liveṣ. How do you then spin it to a moderate book length was perhaps Moxhamś probleṃ. One can appreciate that, still, pages after pages of ego trip will do nothing more than raise a few eyebrows among the westernerṣ. Widespread poverty, haggling with auto-drivers, people defecating in the open are all blase.

Swapandas Gupta I dont touch with ten barge poles, but his critique here I should agree with heartily:

http://indiatoday.intoday.in/story/book-review-of-the-great-hedge-of-india-by-roy-moxham/1/232950.html

Still there are delectable nuggets, worth oneś trouble. I chose to turn the pages fast, keeping close track of the hedge story itself.






Thursday, March 19, 2015

HELPING HANDS REACHING OUT TO IRULAR CHILDREN

My dear nephew T.K.Narayanan first wrote to me:
Those were the days when Saturday’s and Sunday’s used to fly with movies, malls, beaches and so on. And here I was approaching 30. It struck me suddenly, “Oh man, what have you done so far..”
There were so many days when I used to think I would do this, do that, but everything was like written on water,  and I had not done anything which was in anyway beneficial to others. I kept tossing in my bed, racking my brain what I should do, could do, not with much success though.
But the gentleman who drove me and my wife late last year to the Pizza Corner, Vandalur, gave a new direction to my life, it can be said with some confidence. When I was airing my angst yet again to my wife, at least doing something different for the coming birthday,  the auto-driver gently chipped in, saying, “Sir, there’s a shelter for homeless children at Adhanur. They are doing some good work. Why don’t you visit them?”
So on Aug 17 I visited the home and found around 25 kids playing merrily. But my first day wasn’t successful, as the person whom the kids call “Mother,”  the person who runs the home, wasn’t around and I had to return empty-handed.
But I persisted. The following weekend I went back and was overwhelmed. The encounter with Ms Flora was a real slap on my face.
Here was a person who had left her job in Madras University as a lecturer and had dedicated her life to the kids. She had invested all her and her father’s savings into constructing a home for the underprivileged.



The Irular and Dalit children of Adhanur under the care of Helping Hands. Ms Flora in the back, with orange-coloured shawl

The stories of the kids were heart-rending. These were the kids who were working as child labourers, grazing cattle, their fathers abandoning them and their mothers and marrying someone else. And here was a person who could coax the kids back to the schools, or perhaps into the schools for the first time, prevailing upon their mothers to agree to the idea and promising all support. They were sheltered, given food, uniform and also coached after school hours.
I thought “We have time to chit chat, go to pubs, malls and what not, but not even few hours for the kids.” Then I decided to make sure even though financially I am not in a position to help her, I will help the kids in their education by teaching them at least on weekends and also make sure they don’t feel lonely.
Easily the most inspiring aspect of the “Mother” is that not even once she has asked me to see if there is anyone who could help her financially or make some donations. The only thing she keeps telling  me is that she could make do with some more volunteers to teach the kids or some doctors who could come and have a periodic check done regularly or a psychiatrist who could visit them to see if the kids are still traumatized…”
My nephew’s enthusiasm and concern touched me too. So I followed up, calling up the lady and had a long chat. Hailing from a village off Uthiramerur, of a very devout Catholic family, Maria Goretti alias Flora is indeed an amazing woman. She had sought to become a nun, but dissuaded by her family, she still chose to opt for “the service of humanity,” instead of contenting herself with a cosy family life.
At some stage, she throws away a well-paid job and chooses to reach out to the Irulars of Aadhanur, off Vandalur, at the very bottom of the social order and of course left to fend for themselves.
Her early days were really a heroic struggle. She would wait around with biscuits, cakes, short eats as Irular children returned from their daily grind, manage to allay the suspicions of the parents and finally making them agree to put some children in a nearby government school.
Now in the house of Helping Hands she is running, there are 23 children in all, some of them actually referred by the district educational authorities who, she says, are very helpful. Interestingly though the church is not, she says in a matter of fact voice, without any trace of bitterness. Yes, not a paise of help from the local diocese, though individual priests do chip in, now and then, with funds, rice, dresses and so on.                                                                                                

I grill her whether she is into proselytization, subtle or overt. “No sir,” even then not sounding hurt, “Mine is Christ’s calling, yes, which only means reach out to the disadvantaged. It doesn’t mean conversion.  Our prayers are all inter-religious or, shall we say, almost secular…We thank god for whatever he is doing and praying to him for his mercy…no god is mentioned by name.” T.K.Narayanan too confirms he didn’t see any picture of Christ or church or any plaque carrying Christian commandments or any other trapping associated generally with a Christian institution.
Being a non-believer I was actually irritated by her abiding faith. Perhaps am peeved that my own pet beliefs, avowedly based on rational analysis, have few takers, even among those close to me. So be it, it is admirable that faith should move mountains, almost literally.
Flora is acting all on her own, her parents were with her for a while, but father died, and mother shuttles among her various children. Barring the cook, an odd domestic help or too and the evening teacher, the Helping Hands founder is managing the establishment all by herself. And it is she who makes the rounds of various authorities.
“Don’t you feel intimidated? My nephew says it’s a very isolated place…not much of a lighting..”
“Why should I be? I ’ven’t faced any problems so far…Anyway I’m in the hands of God…Whatever happens is His will..”
“Ok, tell me, you are in your forties. Not married, no institutional support…Have you any regrets? How do you see your future?”
“I don’t regret anything..It’s all god’s will, I told you…and mind you, am not an ambitious person, so have no grand plans..If I can take care of these children under my wing now, ensure they have good education, perhaps marry off the girls too, my job is done …I know it calls for enormous efforts, persistence and of course resources..am hoping it all will happen..Let’s see…”

So those interested in financially helping or can volunteer to help out the children may contact the courageous lady on 9498062311

Bank a/c details:
Adhanur Helping Hands
Indian Overseas Bank - Oorapakkam - Tamil Nadu - India
NEFT/RTGS  IOBA0002244
Branch code 2244
A/c no 224401000003815

Saturday, March 7, 2015

Orwellian, with a vengeance


Extraordinary adventures of some very ordinary lives in North Korea. If one can read through this slim volume of less than 300 pages at one go, one has to be detached to an extraordinary degree. I couldn’t.

As Barbara Demick pitilessly adds on one grim detail after another, your cringe, the book drops from your hands, and you tend to hold your head in your hands. No this can’t be happening in the 21st century, in the age of globalization. All this could be wretched American propaganda, you might like to tell yourselves, as you resume reading.

By all accounts North Korea is easily the most repressive and secretive in the entire world. By
comparison even Saudi Arabia could be more liveable. May be the ISIS could provide some stiff competition, and that is some commentary on a self-proclaimed Marxist state.

The western media does report on the country off and on, especially when there is some great famine or some development on the nuclear front, but not very intensely.

Even the Tibetan miseries get more play. True the west seeks to puncture China for various reasons, but that is only one part of the story. The Tibetans are fairly widespread in the world, and they can be accessed for stories anytime. 

But North Korea is almost totally closed, one doesn’t get much of an opportunity to get anywhere near the suffering people of that blighted state, or their representatives elsewhere. Anyway where is the peg? So then their stories are heard much less than they actually are.

In the circumstances this work, by a correspondent of Los Angeles Times, is a welcome reminder of how grim the scene is.

No contact with the outside world. No e-mail, no internet, an indifferent but heavily censored postal service, it is very much an Orwellian world where lovers can denounce each other. And what is there to offset it all? Barring the showcase of Pyongyang, the capital, elsewhere virtually nothing, it looks like. And there is an acute power scarcity, even today. It was macabre in the nineties, it seems.
North Korea as seen through the lives of six defectors over a decade and more, in all its horror, this book shouldn’t be touched by the much too soft-hearted.

The sheer brutality of it all, especially when one sees it manifested in times like famine, can leave
you aghast for days. Whatever be the cause of the famine, to leave people to fend for themselves and worse, to seek to extract work from the hapless when they were leading near-animal-existence, when scrounging for daily food becomes one hell of a struggle, that calls for extraordinary inhumanity indeed.

“He killed rats, mice, and frogs and tadpoles. When the frogs disappeared, he went for grasshoppers and cicadas.” He also trapped sparrows and an occasional dog. But they too became scarce anyway.

And this from another account of the times: “Because of  long-lasting famine, it was very competitive to find anything edible. When you went out to the mountains, plenty of people were already competing to dig out some edible herbs. Farmland was another battlefield to dig out the rice roots remaining in the soil... People dug out the rice roots that remained after reaping, and they ground them into powder and made porridge or maybe some noodles. Though not as good as the fruits, the roots still have some useful nutrients inside. Food made from rice root tasted so awful, though, that for the first time in my life, I realised that some food is tasteless even for starving people.”
 Barbara Demick herself notes,  “An estimated 600,00 to two million North Koreans died in the famine, as much as  10 per cent of the population…exact figures would be nearly impossible to tally since hotspitals could not report starvation as a cause of death,” The regime accepted only selectively foreign aid and sought to keep out aid workers, while the military personnel could sell away aid received in the black market.  Eventually the country climbed out of it all, not through any policy measures, but simply because there were less mouths to feed."

And right through children had to repeat endlessly,
“Long live Kim Il Sung
Kim Jong Il Sun of the 21st century
Let’s live our own way
We will do as the party tells us
We have nothing to envy in the world

Our house is within the embrace of the Workers’ Party
We are all brothers and sisters
Even if a sea of fire comes towards us, sweet children do not need to be afraid,
Our Father is here
We have nothing to envy in this world…”
Nothing to envy is the title of the book, you might have noticed, friends.

To go through a most traumatic time just to survive and still be grateful to those responsible for it all, that should have been a truly horrific experience.

It is possible that Demick exaggerates a bit, vilifies a little and can’t see beyond a western perspective, wherein being political freedom could override everything else. But most accounts agree on most essentials.

"North Korea is not irrational, and nothing shows this better than its continuing survival against all odds. A living political fossil, it clings to existence in the face of limited resources and a zombie economy, manipulating great powers despite its weakness. Its leaders are not ideological zealots or madmen, but perhaps the best practitioners of Machiavellian politics that can be found in the modern world. Even though they preside over a failed state, they have successfully used diplomacy-including nuclear threats-to extract support from other nations."
(Andrei Lankov: The Real North Korea: Life and Politics in the Failed Stalinist Utopia, published in December last.)

According to the Ploughshares Fund World Nuclear Stockpile Report, North Korea possesses less than 10 nuclear weapons of the 16,300 worldwide that are predominantly held by Russia and the United States. That might sound a bit reassuring, but remember the country invests approximately $8.7 billion -- significantly higher than the $570 million Pyongyang claims -- or one-third of its GDP in the military, perhaps the highest in the entire world.

This year marks the 70th anniversary of the division of Korea by the United States and the former Soviet Union. Still both the Koreas are in a permanent state of war, the North a lot more so, the South living under the protective umbrella of Uncle Sam anyway. The latter’s progress to democracy has not been all that smooth, still life is a lot more relaxed over there, in any case they are a lot more prosperous, notwithstanding the inequalities typical of a capitalist economy.

The latest documentary on North Korea, http://www.dw.de/between-personality-cult-and-bumper-car-in-kim-jong-uns-north-korea/a-18269088, should give you some idea of life there now.
By this blog I just wanted to stress that such a virtually barbaric system has not received any strong condemnation from Marxists elsewhere, and that speaks volumes of their concerns.

Anyone looking for more information, can look up the following: